How do bond-building products work?
According to Jay Small, a professional hairstylist and cofounder of Arey, hair is made up of disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds. Disulfide bonds — the strongest bonds, which play a role in hair health and elasticity — are broken down by chemical treatments like bleaching, dying, and permanent relaxing. That's where bond builders come in: they penetrate the hair shaft to rebuild these broken structures.
What are bond-building treatments?
Bond builders are often confused with deep conditioning masks and treatments — but these products do so much more than just add moisture and shine. Many of them contain patented ingredients that mimic your hair's chemistry and fortify your strands.
Without a doubt, Olaplex No. 3 is the most well-known bond builder: it quickly reached cult-favorite status after countless professionals claimed it rescued their clients' damaged tresses. But Olaplex came under fire in 2022 after customers claimed the product caused breakage and hair loss — and a lawsuit alleged that the company didn't disclose the fertility-related health risks linked to an ingredient in the product. Despite using "a trace amount of lilial" at a 0.01% concentration, which the company claims isn't a harmful amount, it has since been phased out of the formula.
"Hair consists of many different types of lipids, carbohydrates, and proteins," says Madison Kistulinec, a hair colorist and owner of Mad About Hair. "Bond builders essentially dive into the innermost part of the hair — the cortex — find the broken polypeptide chains, and fill in the missing links."
How often should I use a bond repair treatment?
Sarah Potempa, a celebrity hairstylist and founder of The Beachwaver Co., recommends using a bond-building treatment before chemical services so your hair is less vulnerable to damage. That said, Small also says it can be beneficial to use these products afterward — since the cuticle is still open following these chemical services, bond builders can often penetrate the hair and work their magic even more easily.
Keep in mind that if you have super processed or damaged hair, professional bond-building products — the kind only available at your salon — tend to be more potent, says Potempa. Yvey Valcin, master stylist and founder of Yvey Salon notes that pro repair products are also more likely to balance the hair's pH level, which plays a crucial role in its health, strength, and overall appearance.
Here are some key ingredients to look for when shopping for bond builders:
- Protein: Hydrolyzed wheat, silk, and soy protein are just a few examples of proteins commonly found in hair products. Small says proteins can restore strength and hydration to the hair. Keka Heron, a hairstylist and board-certified trichologist, notes that keratin is a good protein to look for since it's naturally found in the hair and helps maintain its structure.
- Peptides: Like proteins, these are held together by amino acids — but according to Heron, they're made up of much smaller chains, which your hair may absorb more easily. For example, Valcin notes that gluco peptide can penetrate the deepest layers of the hair cuticle to help repair damaged strands and split ends.
- Humectants: These agents — which can include glycogen, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, caprylyl glycol, and glycerin — attract and retain moisture in the hair, says Small.